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«The Beauty Brains Book.indb 1 2/6/2008 12:14:12 PM The Beauty Brains Book.indb 2 2/6/2008 12:14:12 PM Real Scientists Answer Your Beauty Questions ...»

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1. Moisturization They’ve got to moisturize without adding a lot of heaviness or greasiness.

After all, it’s likely that you’ll be apply some kind of make up around your eyes and you don’t want an eye cream to interfere with your foundation, for example.

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3. Tightening Perhaps most relevant to your question, they should tighten the skin around the eyes since they claim to reduce wrinkles. While they can’t work miracles, they can do this to some extent by adding polymers that form a film on the skin as they dry. This film can make the skin look and feel a little bit tighter.

The Eyecon product you cited seems designed to do just that. It contains ingredients like Ethylene/Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Butylene Glycol, Glyceryl Polymethacrylate, and Sodium Polyacrylate. These are all film forming agents that can help eyes feel less puffy and look less wrinkled.

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Want another opinion? Paula Begoun, the Cosmetic Cop, has a much harsher opinion of eye creams. She says that they are no different from facial moisturizers and that they are “a whim of the cosmetics industry designed to evoke the sale of two products when only one is needed.” Meow!

The Beauty Brains bottom line Eye creams are essentially moisturizers that are modified for use on the thin skin around the eyes. While they don’t work miracles like they claim, they do contain ingredients that may offer some temporary benefit. We say: try it and see what you think. But as always, let the buyer beware.

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Jessie Just Wants To Know:

I recently tried a lip plumper while browsing in Sephora. I was skeptical, but then as I walked around the store, I really did notice my lips feeling slightly fuller and very tingly. Is this my imagination? What are lip plumpers and how do they work?

The Right Brain Responds:

Lip plumpers work by temporarily irritating lips and causing them to swell slightly. That tingly feeling is not your imagination, it’s your lips reacting to a menthol type chemical that most plumpers use. The effect is slight and temporary - don’t expect to look like you’ve had a collagen injection. And while these products really do have this effect, the bad news it’s not really good for your lips to use them on a regular basis because it can be damaging to the skin.

Look for menthoxypropanediol on the ingredient list if you’re not sure the product will really plump or not.

Why Smashbox Should Be Ashamed of O-Glow Blush

Tamara’s Intrigued:

Smashbox’s O-Glow gel claims to generate a natural blushing effect by stimulating skin circulation. I’m intrigued, but the thought of intentionally inflaming my cheeks with a foreign substance strikes me as a bit weird. Does this really work?

The Right Brain Blushes:

Let’s take a look, shall we? According to Smashbox: “This revolutionary silicone-based clear gel works on every skin tone and is microcirculating and skin energizing to keep cheeks naturally flushed for hours.” O-Glow

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Every picture tells a story If you follow the link to our blog (http://thebeautybrains.com/2007/07/10/ why-smashbox-should-be-ashamed-of-o-glow-blush) you’ll see three pictures that tell O-blush story. The first one shows that O-Glow is a clear, colorless gel when it comes out of the tube. The second shows that when rubbed on your cheek, it does turn from colorless to a lovely shade of pink. But is a “micro-circulatory effect” really causing the color? The third picture has the answer: the product changes color even when it’s applied to a piece of white paper. Since paper doesn’t have blood vessels, it’s obvious that the effect has nothing to do with the circulatory system.

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A while back we reported a story about how a fragrance can make it look like you’ve lost weight. Well, Omega Tech Labs has introduced a lip gloss called Promise that is supposed to have weight loss benefits.

Appetite suppressant in lip gloss According to the company, the lip gloss contains a blend of botanical oils (castor oil, coconut oil and evening primrose oil) that work as appetite suppressants.

Experts say that these ingredients can work but they don’t believe you will get enough exposure from the lip gloss to make much difference.

Smells can help you slim While this Beauty Brain is highly skeptical, there is some science backing up the product concept. Researchers at the Smell & Taste Treatment and Research Foundation have done studies showing that odors can actually help people lose Marvelous Makeup weight. If Promise lip gloss contains appetite suppressant oils and odors that help curb your appetite, it might have an effect.

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Common ingredients The primary ingredients in mascara are pigments - the chemicals that provide color. Because U.S. Federal regulations only allow certain colorants to be used in area of the eye, only natural colors and inorganic pigments are used.

Carbon black and iron oxides provide black, brown, and red colors; chemicals Ultramarine blue provide blue and green shades. Manufacturing, Mixing, and Packaging: These pigments are mixed together in a cosmetic base that is an emulsion of oils, waxes, and water. For examples of these waxy ingredients,

let’s look at an example formulation from Maybelline Great Lash:

Water, Beeswax, Ozokerite, Shellac, Glyceryl Stearate, Triethanolamine, Propylene Glycol, Stearic Acid, Sorbitan Sesquioleate, Methylparaben, QuaterniumQuaternium-22, Simethicone, Butylparaben, Iron Oxides (may contain), Titanium Dioxide (may contain), Ultramarine Blue

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The Beauty Brains Book.indb 91 2/6/2008 12:14:24 PM The Beeswax, Ozokerite, Stearic Acid, and Shellac provide the main body of the mascara and give it it’s waterproof and smudge proof properties. Glyceryl Stearate and Triethanolamine are added to make sure the mascara can be washed off. The Propylene Glycol, Sorbitan Sesquioleate, and Simethicone, added as processing agents and help control the consistency of the product while Methylparaben, Quaternium-15, Quaternium-22, and Butylparaben are preservatives that keep the mascara free of “bugs” Finally, the Iron Oxides Titanium Dioxide Ultramarine Blue are the pigments.

How mascara is made These ingredients are mixed together in large metal kettles. Typically, the waxes and emulsifiers are mixed together and melted in one vessel and the water soluble ingredients are mixed in another vessel. Once the waxes are completely melted, the pigments are added. When both portions are sufficiently heated and mixed, they are blended together to form the final product. A device known as a homogenizer is used to make sure all the pigment particles are properly dispersed. Once the mascara is finished mixing, it is transferred to a filling machine that pumps a metered amount into each glass or plastic mascara bottle. The brush or wand is inserted into the tube and a capping machine automatically twists it shut. The tubes are then packaged for shipping.

How mascara works This is really the simple part - when you stick the brush into the mascara tube and pull it out, a metering ring built into the orifice scrapes off the excess mascara so the brush has a controlled dose on it. So, when you brush your eye lashes, just the right amount gets delivered to each tiny hair fiber. The waxy nature of the mascara helps form a relatively thick coating that, due to the high wax concentration, is very water proof. That’s how a good mascara can resist smudging and bleeding. The result - your eye lashes get a nice splash of color and they look much plumper.

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Melanie is miserable:

Recently, I had a terrible allergic reaction on my lips to the Primal Elements Lip Plumper. Shortly after putting it on I had severe swelling, bumps, peeling, on and on. My dermatologist prescribed cortisone cream that seems to be working it will be awhile until it’s completely healed. Do you have an idea of what could have caused a reaction. Maybe the cinnamon? Do you have any suggestions about lip balms that will be safe to use in the future.

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However, that doesn’t seem to be the likely culprit for your lip gloss because Primal Elements doesn’t contain cinnamon oil, it contains Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate which is a sunscreen. While the name sounds like cinnamon, it’s not. Some people are sensitive to sunscreens, however, so you could look at the ingredients on other products you buy and see if you’ve used this one before.

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The Beauty Brains bottom line:

If you look for a lip gloss that doesn’t have ethyl methoxycinnamate, menthol, camphor, benzyl nicotinate and that has a different fragrance, that should help.

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Amy Asks:

I have recently purchased Blinc’s Kiss Me Mascara. It works, via their product description, as “tubing” your lashes instead of “painting” them. Let me tell you, it’s beyond cool to take of my mascara at night and physically see it coming off in tubes from just “water and pressure” as the directions advise. My eyes water when it’s cold out, so I’ve found that my standard mascara doesn’t work in frigid temperatures. I’ve resorted to a fiber mascara, but I do like this tubing since it is easier to take this off. Can you explain how it works?…Like a good reader, I do know how “standard” mascara works.

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Hairspray in a mascara Unlike most mascaras which are made with waxes, Blinc’s Kiss Me is formulated with acrylate polymers. These polymers are similar to the ones used in hairsprays and they’re what give Kiss Me its ability to form tiny tubes.

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We see the color of passion reflected all over fashion and cosmetics. Everyone has (or should have!) a sexy red lipstick or nail polish for special romantic occasions. (Revlon’s Poppysilk Red Lipstick and OPI`s I`m Not Really A Waitress nail polish come to mind.) These products and many others exist thanks to the miracle of modern chemistry which has given us colorants such as FD&C Red No. 40 and D&C Red No. 33.

Of course, we weren’t always lucky enough to have such a rainbow of reds to choose from. Originally red dye came from a more natural, yet more disgusting, source: crushed insect bodies. The cochineal insect be precise.

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Today, modern chemistry can synthetically create a wide variety of red dyes so we don’t have to rely on picking bugs off cacti to make our pucker look pretty. And that’s just one more reason to be thankful for cosmetic chemists!

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One of the most popular topics on the Beauty Brains is the Jan Marini Age Intervention Eyelash. People always want to know, “will this product make my eyelashes grow?” “Is it worth $160 for less than 1 ounce of product?” No evidence for lash growth We’ve looked high and low but have not been able to find any scientific studies that would support that this product will make your eyelashes grow thicker and longer. But that hasn’t stopped people from leaving comments telling us how wrong we are. They insist that there is a special off-label glaucoma drug that Jan Marini uses in the product to make eyelashes grow.

Or they insist that they’ve used it and it makes their eyelashes grow. While we’re skeptical, we continue to look for credible research that shows this product really works.

Passionate comments Here is a recent comment that prompted some more research. Jim writes… Everyone has a right to their opinion, but blatant misinformation is not only inaccurate, but harmful.The new Age Intervention Eyelash product does work. Jan

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“Age Intervention Eyelash Conditioner is not intended to stop, prevent, cure, relieve, reverse or reduce eyelash loss or to promote the growth of eyelashes”

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The authors of some of the other beauty blogs have asked us to explain how eyeliner works. So here’s how ‘liners make you lovely!

Types of Eyeliners Eyeliners are formulated into two basic types: pencils and liquids. While the details vary, both types use these same basic ingredients.

Basic Ingredients The Base is the backbone of the formula. In the case of pencils, its the waxy/ greasy matrix that forms the core of the pencil; in the liquids its the water/oil emulsion in which the rest of the ingredients are suspended.

Typical base ingredients include waxes and oils, emollients (spreading agents) and in the case of liquid type, water and emulsifiers.

Colors Colorants used in eyeliners (and other cosmetics used around the eye) must be approved by the FDA (in the United States). Colorants that can be used in products for other parts of the body aren’t necessarily safe enough to be used around your eyes.

Typical colorants include iron oxides and ultramarine pigments. Carmine is another colorant you see from time to time. It’s a red color made from crushed insect bodies. Mmmmm!

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Typical control agents include tocopherol (also known as vitamin E) used for its antioxidant properties as well as Citric Acid, Methylparaben, and Propylparaben.

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Karina’s Question:

Could you please tell me what the ingredient is in foundation that makes your face look much whiter in photos?!?! Is it just one ingredient, or a combination?

Could you recommend any brands which don’t do this? Thanks.

The Right Brain Responds:

Karina, we’ve never heard of this problem before, but we can make an educated guess about what’s happening.

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