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«The Beauty Brains Book.indb 1 2/6/2008 12:14:12 PM The Beauty Brains Book.indb 2 2/6/2008 12:14:12 PM Real Scientists Answer Your Beauty Questions ...»

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fatty alcohols (like cetyl and stearyl alcohol); conditioning ingredients (like stearamidopropylamine and quaternium-18) and silicones (like dimethicone and cyclomethicone.) There’s nary a plastic to be found in Pantene. And no, it doesn’t make your hair fall out either.

–  –  –

The idea that salon products are different than store ones is interesting.

We are cosmetic chemists that work in the industry and know that this story is a bit skewed. If the news reporters wanted to get the “real” story, they shouldn’t be asking the head of Paul Mitchell because he is completely biased. They should ask chemists that make products.

Discovering Diversion The truth is these salon brands depend on ‘diverted’ product to boost their sales. They want to have it both ways. They want to tell you that Paul Mitchell is a salon-only brand which makes it seem more exclusive, but they also want the high volume sales that they can only get through mass market outlets like your local Kroger. Additionally, they don’t want to anger their salon distributors because people are able to get the same stuff but for cheaper.

They make up this story of products being inferior. In nearly all cases, they are not. The way diversion works is this. Paul Mitchell hires a company to manufacture their products. Then Paul Mitchell sales people get and fill orders from distributors. Distributors are legitimate businesses that sell directly to independent salons. The distributors can order as much as they want, then sell it to the salons who can then sell it to you.

–  –  –

The problem of counterfeiting is a real one, but it’s not something that you’ll find at large stores like Kroger. That company is not going to sell something contaminated because they would be sued in a heartbeat. The places that are a little more sketchy are the small shops (some salons) with the dust on top of the bottles. Those are the places you have to worry about.

–  –  –

The only piece of truth in this claim is that the shampoo does contain something that could be called a “curl enhancer.” Looking at the ingredient list we see that it does contains a polymer (Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer), that COULD provide some styling benefits. But that would only work if it wasn’t rinsed out!

Remember, just because a product contains an ingredient that does something, it doesn’t mean that it does something in that product!

The rest of the claims are pretty much made up, as far as we can tell. There is no shampoo technology that will measurably improve the holding power of your hair.

Other curling shampoos

What about other products, you ask? Well here’s two more:

KMS Curl Up Shampoo and Marc Anthony Strictly Curls. Neither of these shampoos make strong curling claims. KMS only promises to be your “curl’s best friend, ” to ” start your style in the shower,” and to “boost boisterous curls while adding moisture and shine.” Marc, on the other hand, offers to protect color; repair dry, frizzy areas, and repel humidity to define shiny, soft, curls. (”Define” curls is not really a very emphatic claim.) Aside from a little polyquaternium (a conditioning ingredient) neither of these products have any curling technology either.

–  –  –

So, Ellie, it looks like the answer to your drying dilemma could come down to what’s more important to you: avoiding damage or fighting frizz? Less damage is better for your long term hair health but nobody wants frizz. Only you can decide which to choose. But, hey, if you’re THAT worried about frizz you can always use a good smoothing product after you dry your hair.

You can buy an entire CASE of this effective frizz fighter for only 20 bucks!

–  –  –

Ebesan says:

I’m a male who’s very happy with my baldness I don’t want new hair. But, I do want my scalp to look better. It’s blotchy and discolored with different layers of skin.

Is there a product, or procedure that can give me back my healthy scalp skin?

The Right Brain Responds:

Hi Eb, we’re always glad to answer questions from our male readers! Without actually examining your scalp it’s hard to say what’s going on upstairs, but

here are 3 tips that might help:

–  –  –

2. Chrome your dome Are you applying sunscreen to your head? You should! Even if you wear a hat most of the time you might be getting enough UV radiation to damage your skin. What? You’re a guy and you don’t know anything about girly things like sunscreen??? Get over it and start using sunscreen. Your hair will thank you.

–  –  –

Unfortunately, you’re stealing shine from your hair everyday and you probably don’t even realize it. If you want good gloss, you should avoid these 12 things

that can rob hair of shine. Or as we like to call them, the Dulling Dozen:

–  –  –

3. Careless Under-conditioning Ok, not everyone needs to condition EVERY time they wash their hair. BUT, if your hair is dry to begin with it’s much more likely to be damaged during and after styling if you skip conditioner. You’re just giving shine away!

–  –  –

Maaiki Is Feeling Flakey:

I was wondering what your opinion is of Burt’s Bees Feelin’ Flaky shampoo.

Looking over the ingredients list, it looks like they did a good job of avoiding skin irritants (except for the tea tree oil), but since it all gets washed off after a few seconds, I don’t know how much good it could do.The ingredients are, Vegetable glycerin, lemon fruit water, sucrose cocoate, decyl polyglucose, willowbark extract, peppermint leaf extract (organic), willow leaf extract, burdock root extract, nettles leaf extract, yucca schidigera extract, cedar leaf oil, tea tree oil, lemon oil, rosemary oil, juniper oil, peppermint oil, xanthan gum (natural thickener), glucose & glucose oxidase & lactoperoxidase.

The Left Brain Gets Indignant:

You’ve discovered one of the shampoo scams that REALLY makes The Beauty Brains mad - false and misleading anti-dandruff claims. Some companies make it APPEAR that their products will control dandruff but they really won’t. The way companies do this may not be strictly illegal, but it certainly is unethical in my opinion. Let’s look at this Burt’s Bees product as an example.

Burt’s Bees Feeling Flaky Shampoo According to Drugstore.com, the full name of the product is Burt’s Bees Doctor Burt’s Herbal Treatment Shampoo with Cedar Leaf & Juniper Oil.

Doctor Burt, huh? I know that the reference is tongue-in-cheek, but that sure sounds medicinal to me! Strike One.

Below the name it describes the shampoo as Feelin’ Flaky? with a question mark. In the context of cleaning hair and scalp, “flaky” is generally the term used to describe a symptom of dandruff. (Itchiness is another symptom.) Hmmm. Strike Two.

And finally the use directions: Wet hair, lather, rinse, then lather and rinse again. Shampoo at least three times a week for maximum effectiveness.”

–  –  –

While this product, and others like it, don’t overtly claim to control dandruff, they are CERTAINLY making that implication. And that’s the same as lying to consumers.

What’s In A Real Dandruff Shampoo The truth is, dandruff shampoos contain active ingredients that treat the physiological causes of dandruff. How can you tell if a shampoo is really effective against dandruff? In the US, look for active drug ingredients like Zinc Pyrithione (also known as ZPT.) In Europe and a few other countries, look for Octopyrox on the label. If you don’t see some kind of legitimate active ingredient listed it’s not really an effective dandruff shampoo. Don’t believe everything the cosmetic companies tell you!

The Beauty Brains bottom line You ask “how much good” this product will do for you. Well, it will certainly get your hair clean. The primary surfactants (sucrose cocoate and decyl polyglucose) will see to that. And it won’t dry your scalp out either, those are pretty mild cleansers. But that’s about it. It’s not a medicated shampoo so it won’t help against dandruff.

–  –  –

1. Water & detergent. Shampoos and body washes are designed to clean which means they’re mostly water and detergent. And for cleaning oil off of surfaces nothing beats surfactants. Body washes like Dove, Olay and Herbalessences all use Sodium Laureth Sulfate. This is the same surfactant that many shampoos use.

2. Fragrance & Color. No differences here. Body wash and shampoo use the same ingredients to make the product smell good and look pretty.

3. Conditioning ingredients. Since detergents can be a bit harsh, ingredients are added to improve the after-feel of hair and skin. Often body washes and shampoos use the same types of ingredients.

–  –  –

2. Different conditioning ingredients. Some of the ingredients that conditioner hair can also provide a nice feel on skin. However, many will not and this is often a key difference between shampoos & body washes.

A great comparison is to look at the list of ingredients of the Herbal Essences Body Wash versus their Shampoo. See the similar ingredients?

Companies have actually picked up on the similarities. In the Old Spice High Endurance Body Wash they show a guy washing his hair and body with the same product.

The Beauty Brains bottom line Shampoos clean and so do body washes. In general you’ll find it beneficial to use both a body wash and a shampoo. But there is really no reason you couldn’t use a shampoo to clean your entire body. If you use a daily moisturizer, then there is no need for a separate body wash.

–  –  –

4. Be picky about piling hair on top Do you pile your hair on top of your head when you shampoo? This creates MANY opportunities for splits. Shampoo really only needs to be applied to your roots. That’s where the grease/oil is. Personally, I condition the length of my hair, apply shampoo to my scalp (down to ears), rinse, then apply conditioner again, rinse. This is called CWC (Condition Wash Condition). All the while, the length of my hair just hangs down my back.

–  –  –

8. Condition, condition, condition Do you use conditioner or a cream rinse when you shampoo? My personal belief is, if you want long hair you need to condition it EVERY time you shampoo. If nothing else, it helps detangle my hair. You also might consider using a leave in conditioner, especially one that helps detangle (and gives slip).

–  –  –

10. Consider combing cautiously After you’ve shampooed, when/how do you brush/comb your hair? Generally, brushing wet hair is bad for the hair. Hair is most delicate when wet. Brushing tends to stretch the strands. Stretching the strands puts wear and tear, which causes damage, which causes splits.

–  –  –

Nina needs to know...

about WEN, a line of cleansing conditioners created by a Hollywood hair stylist Chaz Dean. Dean believes that sulfates in most shampoos can be very damaging and stripping to hair so he created these cleansing conditioners to clean hair without stripping it. Nina wants to know if hair can really be better off in the long run by cleansing with a conditioner. And if it does work, will a regular drugstore conditioner produce the same effect.

–  –  –

Water, glycerin, cetyl alcohol, rosemary leaf extract, wild cherry fruit extract, fig extract, chamomile extract, marigold flower extract, behentrimonium methosulfate, cetearyl alcohol, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, amodimethicone, hydrolized wheat protein, polysorbate 60, panthenol, menthol, sweet almond oil, PEG-60 almond glycerides, methylisothiazolinone, methylchloroisothiazolinone, citric acid, essential oils.

Looking at just the functional ingredients (leaving out extracts, preservatives,

pH adjusters, ) leaves the following:

glycerin, cetyl alcohol, behentrimonium methosulfate, cetearyl alcohol, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine (SADMA), and amodimethicone Common conditioner

These are very common conditioner ingredients. Here’s what they do:

Glycerin can provide moisturization in a leave on product, but it doesn’t do anything for hair when it’s rinsed out. Cetyl and cetearyl alcohol are thickening and emulsifying agents are are used to make a conditioner rich and creamy. Because they’re oil soluble they could, in theory, help lift some

–  –  –

Could you clean your hair with this product? Sure, if your hair isn’t very dirty this could work pretty well. But so could any basic conditioner. In fact, I’d look for a conditioner that doesn’t have any silicone in it, just to make sure it leaves as little on your hair as possible.

But what if you have greasy hair, or if you use hairspray, mousse gel, or putty?

Then cleansing conditioners are not a very good idea. They don’t have enough cleansing power to remove gunk from the hair. Chances are that cleansing with conditioner will leave your hair feeling dirty and weighed down.

The Beauty Brains bottom line:

If you’re really worried about drying your hair out from over-shampooing, there’s nothing wrong with skipping your shampoo and just rinsing with conditioner once in a while. But you don’t need to spend $28 on a special product. A nice inexpensive drug store brand will do the same thing.

–  –  –

Heather writes:

I got hair extensions out almost two years ago. I paid four thousand dollars for the kind that are put on individually with clips, which need to be put in and taken out with a tool that only salons have they have to be adjusted every month.

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