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«The Beauty Brains Book.indb 1 2/6/2008 12:14:12 PM The Beauty Brains Book.indb 2 2/6/2008 12:14:12 PM Real Scientists Answer Your Beauty Questions ...»

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conditions.” Here are 5 beauty gadgets that Dr. Rohrer says really work:

1. Hair-removal (the Epila SI 808 Laser and the Spa Touch from Radiancy) According to Dr. Rohrer, Spa Touch showed moderate efficacy with patients reporting an average 66% reduction in unwanted hair counts. At nine months follow-up, patients noted about a one-third reduction. Furthermore, there were a minimal side effects.

2. Hair loss (HairMax LaserComb from Lexington International LLC) This device is one of only three treatments that are FDA-approved for hair growth. Dr. Rohrer says that “in a 26-week, multi-center, placebo-controlled study with this device, 93 percent of subjects noticed an increase in hair count.”

–  –  –

4. Facial photo-rejuvenation (NuLase from NuLase International LLC and ClearTouch Lite from Radiance) Light Emitting Diode devices are safe, relatively pain-free, and can provide “subtle but real changes in the skin.”

5. Facial Toning (Facial Toning Device from Radiancy) Dr. Rohrer claims the Radiancy devices uses LHE technology and is capable of reducing age spots and wrinkles. However, the study he cited has not yet been published so we’re more skeptical on this one.

–  –  –

A comment from a salon operator who’s concerned

about L’Oreal buying Pureology:

I just noticed that the first ingredient listed in the Pureology shampoos and conditioners is now water. It`s crazy how L’Oreal buys them and the first thing they do is “water down” the product (but not the price). My clients loved that there was no water in the products because they so concentrated. They really liked the first ingredient listed being certified botanical extracts. I guess I’ll have to switch my Pureology clients over to something else because it’s no longer unique.

The Left Brain responds:

I certainly can’t tell you what products you should recommend for your clients, but as a scientist I do want to help you understand the science of what you’re selling.

Small companies can be sneaky The old Pureology shampoos and conditioners are good, although overpriced, products. But just because the first ingredient is a botanical blend

–  –  –

What it really means is that Pureology was a small independent salon company, and they chose not to strictly follow the cosmetic labeling laws.

Many small companies use this trick of listing extracts first, thus making it look like they don’t have any water. Don’t fall for it! It’s one of the oldest tricks in this industry and it’s misleading and unfair. The formula is still mostly water!

Unfortunately, the Federal Trade Commission (FTC) and other agencies that fight this kind of consumer fraud are too busy with more serious issues and don’t have time to chase after small companies who are tricking consumers with these kind of labeling lies.

Bigger companies follow the law Since L’Oreal is a much bigger company they tend to play by the rules that all the big companies are held to. In the end, this is better for the consumer because you’re getting more truth. Instead of being upset with L’Oreal, you should be thankful that they’re labeling the products honestly.

And by the way, since L’Oreal has a much larger research staff than Pureology, any formula changes they made are probably for the better!

–  –  –

6. Missing or Broken Aerosol Cap They say aerosol “cap” but they’re really talking about the button or the actuator, as it is technically known. The cap is the piece that covers the entire top of the can.

–  –  –

The Left Brain replies:

They can’t say it, at least not anymore. According to the August 20, 2007 edition of the Rose Sheet (a cosmetic industry bulletin) L’Oreal has been asked to modify or discontinue certain claims for Nutritioniste Ultra lift and Skin Renew products by the NAD (National Advertising Division). Here’s a

quick recap of the issues with 3 of L’Oreal’s claims:

1. “…it actually lifts wrinkles from the inside out” What the NAD says: “It is well established that topical creams do not absorb deep inside the skin in the same manner as cosmetic fillers such as collagen injections.” In other words, this lotion works from the outside in, not the other way around!

2. “…in three weeks wrinkles are visibly lifted and skin is noticeably firmer” What the NAD says: In L’Oreal’s clinical study the questions “related to skin firmness refer to skin feeling firmer, not being noticeably firmer as is explicitly stated in one of the challenged claims.”

3. Ultra lift “refuels cells within skin’s deepest surface layers” What the NAD says: L’Oreal’s 9 week study showed Ultra Lift’s effect on fine line, shallow wrinkles, and tactile roughness, and skin laxity. This is inadequate “particularly with regard to hydration - despite the presence of moisture locking ingredients Omega 3 and 6.” To be fair, I should point out that the NAD is not saying this product doesn’t

–  –  –

5 Fascinating Facts About Max Factor Cosmetics

Connie wants to win:

Can you please settle a bet? My friend is trying to convince me that the Max Factor cosmetic line is really named after a guy named Max Factor. Sounds like an urban legend to me. I’m guessing it’s really a marketing name like “Maximum Coverage Factor” or something like that. Please answer quickly, I can win an Itunes gift card!

The Left Brain resolves the bet:

You can also LOSE an iTunes gift card, Connie. I’m afraid your friend is right: Max Factor Cosmetics is actually named after the chemist who created it: Max Faktor.

Max is actually quite famous among us cosmetic chemists as one of the early

pioneers of modern makeup. Here are few fun historical facts:

Faktor to Factor Born in Poland in 1877, by the age of 20 Max was selling handmade rouges, fragrances and wigs. He came to the US in 1902 where he changed his name from “Faktor” to “Factor” and by 1904 he was selling lotions and hair care products at the St. Louis World’s Fair.

Shoot for the stars In 1914 he created the first line of grease paint products designed for motion picture stars. In just a few short decades, Jean Harlow, Claudette

–  –  –

Wenditha wonders:

Hey Left! Thanks for telling me about The Beauty Brains site. It’s great! Very pretty too, what with all the pink. : ) So I’m wondering about a beauty company called Arbonne? Could you tell me what the Beauty Brains think? They’re supposed to be the end-all, be-all, but I remain cautious. However, I’ve used some samples of their anti-aging skin line and found it to be very nice.

–  –  –

The Arbonne Marketing Story Based on the information on their website, Arbonne products are claimed to be premium skin care products are formulated in Switzerland at the Arbonne Institute of Research and Development (AIRD) and made in the U.S.A.

They follow the standard all-natural marketing story that you find from every other natural company, although they imply some kind of advanced science as if there was any. All the usual claims about how great their products are here. We’ve previously discussed cosmetic claims and what they really mean.

–  –  –

The thing that’s different about these products than a mass market brand like Aveeno is the price. Arbonne is a whopping $19.50 for 8 ounces!

Aveeno is $9.99 for 18 ounces. Functionally, there will likely be no noticeable difference.

–  –  –

So, what about the products? Are they worth the extra money? Scientifically speaking, they’re probably not.

It was difficult to find the ingredient lists because they are not on their main website. However, here is one we found related to their skin lotion.

Arbonne Skin Moisturizing Lotion Ingredients: Water, Carthamus Tinctorius (Safflower) Seed Oil, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Cetearyl Alcohol, Ceteareth-20, Glycerin, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Fruit, Althaea Officinalis Root Extract, Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Extract, Taraxacum Officinale (Dandelion) Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract, Salvia Officinalis (Sage) Leaf Extract, Retinyl Palmitate, Ergocalciferol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Panthenol, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil, Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil, Zea Mays (Corn) Oil, Persea Gratissima (Avocado) Oil, Rosa Damascena Flower Oil, Stearic Acid, Cetyl Alcohol, Ethylhexyl Salicylate, Polysorbate 60, Carbomer, Disodium EDTA, Dimethicone, Quaternium-15, Triethanolamine This is a standard lotion complete with water, fatty alcohols, oils, emulsifiers, thickeners and preservatives. All of the natural sounding ingredients are most likely in there at such low levels they don’t really do anything. And even if they were in there at higher levels there is no proof that they would have a ny special effect anyway.

–  –  –

Does Technology Make Arbonne Products Different?

There are certain topics on the Beauty Brains that spark vigorous debate.

Supporters provide a tenacious defense of their favorite products despite limited proof of effectiveness. Jan Marini and the eyelash growth product is one and Arbonne products are another. This post concerns the later.

Recently, we received an email from Christine who is a self-proclaimed Arbonne representative. She is proud to report that she’s a true believer who has “drunk the Koolaid”. You can see all of her comments in our previous Arbonne post.

She took issue with the fact that we suggested Arbonne products really weren’t much different than store brands. We’d like to respond to some points made in her comments because they are instructive in how to be a skeptical cosmetic consumer.

What does it mean to research a topic?

I spent three years of law school learning how to learn, so I researched Arbonne quite thoroughly before deciding to jump in with both feet We hear this claim fairly often. People write in and explain how they’ve researched a product. Unfortunately, they rarely describe what was

–  –  –

Real research is a combination of product information plus intimate knowledge of raw materials, familiarity with formulating techniques, and experience with numerous laboratory evaluation techniques. Ideally, there would even be peer reviewed research published in a journal like those found at PubMed.

Here at the Beauty Brains we try to use our background in product formulation and sometimes even actual laboratory product evaluations to generate our opinions. Christine is correct to say that these are still just “subjective opinions” but unlike most, we have no products to sell you and we are not trying to convince ourselves we didn’t overpay for a product.

Hopefully, this allows us to provide the most unbiased evaluations possible.

Is the technology really different?

The commenter makes the point that there are “THREE KEY THINGS” that make Arbonne different. Only one of these has to do with the product.

The first thing is Arbonne’s technology, and the delivery system of the product.

Most beauty products are made up of great ingredients - they can be the best on the market. However, they often do not penetrate directly to the epidermal cells that need the moisture the most. The do not self-adjust. Arbonne uses a technology called Nanosphere technology - look it up…The nanosphere technology takes the medication, or the product, in our case, directly to the cellular areas that need it the most. Arbonne’s moisturizers do not sit on the skin like most other brands do. The product not only penetrates down from the top epidermal level, but does its work where it is needed the most. Superior product? Not necessarily.

–  –  –

It’s common for people to tell us that their technology is different. Arbonne’s “superior” technology is a thing they call Nanospheres. But this is the same type of technology that companies like L’Oreal and P&G have. This doesn’t make them different.

And while nanosphere technology may sound superior to some, it scares many experts in the nanotechnology field. In the US, nanotechnology is unregulated even though it has the potential to cause unexpected harm. You don’t want your cosmetics to penetrate your skin! When they do, they can get into your body and potentially cause harm. Superior technology does not penetrate. At present, we recommend you avoid products that say they contain nanotechnology.

Finally, despite the safety concerns of nanotechnology there is still no proof that Arbonne moisturizers, body washes or shampoos work any better than typical store brands. Could someone show us an independent side-by-side study comparing Arbonne moisturizers to Olay?

The Beauty Brains bottom line:

There is no doubt that Arbonne produces a high quality product. However, we stand behind our original assessment that they are technologically not much different than brands you can get at the store. With the exception of sunscreen, we also suggest you avoid cosmetics that claim to have nanotechnology.

–  –  –

Whatever the derivation of its name, a BBL is designed to give you “youthful, prominent, perky buttocks.” How does it work? Fat grafting! That means the surgeon uses liposuction to remove fat from your lower back, stomach and thighs. The fat is purified and then re-injected into different areas of your buttocks at various depths. It may take hundreds of tiny injections to fill the upper quadrant of your buttocks but when done correctly it does make your butt look better. But a poor injection job can be painful and produce fat shapeless buttocks.

Are there any problems with this perky pooper procedure?

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