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«publishing brains Brains Publishing – New York, Chicago Copyright © 2008 by Brains Publishing All rights reserved. Published in the United States ...»

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10. Twist and Shout Twisting and playing with your hair is a dangerous habit as far as shine is concerned. That’s because the torsional forces (fancy word for twisting and bending) loosens the cuticles.

11. I Dig A Pony Wearing your hair in a pony tail may seem like a hassle free style, but if you pull it back too tightly you may be creating micro-fractures in the hair that will reflect light unevenly and cause loss of shine.

12. Here Comes The Sun And with the sun comes damaging UV radiation that can wreak havoc on natural hair lipids like 18-methyleicosinoic acid. Without these lipids hair dulls quickly. If you can’t stay out of the sun make sure you’re protecting your hair with a good conditioner.

18 - Tips on Caring for Your Hair How To Tell If A Dandruff Shampoo Will Really Work

Maaiki Is Feeling Flakey:

I was wondering what your opinion is of Burt’s Bees Feelin’ Flaky shampoo.

Looking over the ingredients list, it looks like they did a good job of avoiding skin irritants (except for the tea tree oil), but since it all gets washed off after a few seconds, I don’t know how much good it could do.The ingredients are, Vegetable glycerin, lemon fruit water, sucrose cocoate, decyl polyglucose, willowbark extract, peppermint leaf extract (organic), willow leaf extract, burdock root extract, nettles leaf extract, yucca schidigera extract, cedar leaf oil, tea tree oil, lemon oil, rosemary oil, juniper oil, peppermint oil, xanthan gum (natural thickener), glucose & glucose oxidase & lactoperoxidase.

The Left Brain Gets Indignant:

You’ve discovered one of the shampoo scams that REALLY makes The Beauty Brains mad - false and misleading anti-dandruff claims. Some companies make it APPEAR that their products will control dandruff but they really won’t. The way companies do this may not be strictly illegal, but it certainly is unethical in my opinion. Let’s look at this Burt’s Bees product as an example.

Burt’s Bees Feeling Flaky Shampoo According to Drugstore.com, the full name of the product is Burt’s Bees Doctor Burt’s Herbal Treatment Shampoo with Cedar Leaf & Juniper Oil.

Doctor Burt, huh? I know that the reference is tongue-in-cheek, but that sure sounds medicinal to me! Strike One.

Below the name it describes the shampoo as Feelin’ Flaky? with a question mark. In the context of cleaning hair and scalp, “flaky” is generally the term used to describe a symptom of dandruff. (Itchiness is another symptom.) Hmmm. Strike Two.

And finally the use directions: Wet hair, lather, rinse, then lather and rinse again. Shampoo at least three times a week for maximum effectiveness.” Tips on Caring for Your Hair - 19 Maximum effectiveness? Again, sounds like they’re promising some kind of sustained effect. If they’re not talking about dandruff, what effectiveness are they talking about? Just getting your hair clean. That’s lame - Strike 3!

While this product, and others like it, don’t overtly claim to control dandruff, they are CERTAINLY making that implication. And that’s the same as lying to consumers.

What’s In A Real Dandruff Shampoo The truth is, dandruff shampoos contain active ingredients that treat the physiological causes of dandruff. How can you tell if a shampoo is really effective against dandruff? In the US, look for active drug ingredients like Zinc Pyrithione (also known as ZPT.) In Europe and a few other countries, look for Octopyrox on the label. If you don’t see some kind of legitimate active ingredient listed it’s not really an effective dandruff shampoo. Don’t believe everything the cosmetic companies tell you!

The Beauty Brains bottom line You ask “how much good” this product will do for you. Well, it will certainly get your hair clean. The primary surfactants (sucrose cocoate and decyl polyglucose) will see to that. And it won’t dry your scalp out either, those are pretty mild cleansers. But that’s about it. It’s not a medicated shampoo so it won’t help against dandruff.

20 - Tips on Caring for Your Hair You Don’t Have To Use Body Wash To Get Yourself Clean

Valeri is vexed:

Body wash can cost $4 or more. Some shampoos cost.66 to.99 cents. Is there that much of a difference between the two products to justify the price? I use the shampoo for body wash.

Left Brain’s bubbly reply:

Great question Valeri and an astute observation for even considering the possibility. The truth is that shampoos and body washes are so similar that they can be used interchangeably. In fact, in the early days of body washes it was not uncommon for a company to take its shampoo formula, put it in a different bottle, change the label and call it a body wash.

Shampoo & Body Wash Similarities Let’s look at some of the things that the two products have in common.

1. Water & detergent. Shampoos and body washes are designed to clean which means they’re mostly water and detergent. And for cleaning oil off of surfaces nothing beats surfactants. Body washes like Dove, Olay and Herbalessences all use Sodium Laureth Sulfate. This is the same surfactant that many shampoos use.

2. Fragrance & Color. No differences here. Body wash and shampoo use the same ingredients to make the product smell good and look pretty.

3. Conditioning ingredients. Since detergents can be a bit harsh, ingredients are added to improve the after-feel of hair and skin. Often body washes and shampoos use the same types of ingredients.

Shampoo & Body Wash Differences While shampoos and body washes are quite similar there are some important differences.

Tips on Caring for Your Hair - 21

1. Body wash uses less harsh detergents. Since skin is generally more sensitive than hair, body wash formulas are made with slightly less detergent and also less harsh detergents. The low cost shampoos use SLS or ALS which are excellent cleaners but can be drying to skin.

2. Different conditioning ingredients. Some of the ingredients that conditioner hair can also provide a nice feel on skin. However, many will not and this is often a key difference between shampoos & body washes.

A great comparison is to look at the list of ingredients of the Herbal Essences Body Wash versus their Shampoo. See the similar ingredients?

Companies have actually picked up on the similarities. In the Old Spice High Endurance Body Wash they show a guy washing his hair and body with the same product.

The Beauty Brains bottom line Shampoos clean and so do body washes. In general you’ll find it beneficial to use both a body wash and a shampoo. But there is really no reason you couldn’t use a shampoo to clean your entire body. If you use a daily moisturizer, then there is no need for a separate body wash.

22 - Tips on Caring for Your Hair Top 10 Split End Busters One of our fave forums for hair facts is The Long Hair Forum. If you want to grow your hair longer, it is THE site to see. They have put together a great list of tips. Here are the top 10 that will actually help improve your hair. You can also read their original list “Keeping Splits At Bay: Secrets of Gently Handling Your Hair”*

1. Move your mane If your hair is long enough to get caught under coat collars or under shoulder straps (for Messenger bags, back pack, etc) then be sure to move your hair before putting on that bag.

2. Keep air off your hair Does your hair whip in the wind? Wind knots up hair. Knots damage length.

Damaged length causes more splits. Eventually the damaged length splits.

Restrain your hair when you are going to be in a lot of wind.

3. Wash warily Only apply shampoo to roots where it needs it. Avoid washing the dried out ends.

4. Be picky about piling hair on top Do you pile your hair on top of your head when you shampoo? This creates MANY opportunities for splits. Shampoo really only needs to be applied to your roots. That’s where the grease/oil is. Personally, I condition the length of my hair, apply shampoo to my scalp (down to ears), rinse, then apply conditioner again, rinse. This is called CWC (Condition Wash Condition). All the while, the length of my hair just hangs down my back.

5. Towel drying is treacherous When you dry your hair, do you scrub your scalp with a towel? It feels great, but it will rip, strip, pop, snap and fry your hair in no time! Many of us use some sort of a turbie type towel/turban for drying our hair. Others put a towel on their back and let the hair drip onto the towel.

6. Blow off blow drying Do you blow dry your hair? The heat and the wind created by the blowfryer (no that isn’t a typo) really damages hair, too. Any heat styling tool can potentially damage hair. If you feel you must use them, keep the temperature low and exposure time to your hair short.


–  –  –

8. Condition, condition, condition Do you use conditioner or a cream rinse when you shampoo? My personal belief is, if you want long hair you need to condition it EVERY time you shampoo. If nothing else, it helps detangle my hair. You also might consider using a leave in conditioner, especially one that helps detangle (and gives slip).

9. Oil often You can oil the length of your hair daily. Many long hairs do this. They put a small drop in the palm of their hand, rub their hands together and lightly apply the oil to the ends only of the hair. There is an abundance of oils that you can use, some are quite exotic. Extra virgin olive oil (EVOO) is probably the most common, but there is a long list of oils everyone has tried and ones that each person likes/doesn’t like.

10. Consider combing cautiously After you’ve shampooed, when/how do you brush/comb your hair? Generally, brushing wet hair is bad for the hair. Hair is most delicate when wet. Brushing tends to stretch the strands. Stretching the strands puts wear and tear, which causes damage, which causes splits.

24 - Tips on Caring for Your Hair How To Clean Your Hair With Conditioner Nina needs to know...

about WEN, a line of cleansing conditioners created by a Hollywood hair stylist Chaz Dean. Dean believes that sulfates in most shampoos can be very damaging and stripping to hair so he created these cleansing conditioners to clean hair without stripping it. Nina wants to know if hair can really be better off in the long run by cleansing with a conditioner. And if it does work, will a regular drugstore conditioner produce the same effect.

The Left Brain replies:

Great question, Nina. First of all, the idea of cleaning your hair with conditioner is not new and was not invented by Chaz. And no, he’s not using

any kind of revolutionary technology. Let’s take a look at the ingredients:

Water, glycerin, cetyl alcohol, rosemary leaf extract, wild cherry fruit extract, fig extract, chamomile extract, marigold flower extract, behentrimonium methosulfate, cetearyl alcohol, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, amodimethicone, hydrolized wheat protein, polysorbate 60, panthenol, menthol, sweet almond oil, PEG-60 almond glycerides, methylisothiazolinone, methylchloroisothiazolinone, citric acid, essential oils.

Looking at just the functional ingredients (leaving out extracts, preservatives,

pH adjusters, ) leaves the following:

glycerin, cetyl alcohol, behentrimonium methosulfate, cetearyl alcohol, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine (SADMA), and amodimethicone Common conditioner

These are very common conditioner ingredients. Here’s what they do:

Glycerin can provide moisturization in a leave on product, but it doesn’t do anything for hair when it’s rinsed out. Cetyl and cetearyl alcohol are thickening and emulsifying agents are are used to make a conditioner rich and creamy. Because they’re oil soluble they could, in theory, help lift some Tips on Caring for Your Hair - 25 of the sebum of your hair and scalp. Behentrimonium methosulfate, SADMA, and amodimethicone are very effective conditioning ingredients because they deposit on the hair.

Could you clean your hair with this product? Sure, if your hair isn’t very dirty this could work pretty well. But so could any basic conditioner. In fact, I’d look for a conditioner that doesn’t have any silicone in it, just to make sure it leaves as little on your hair as possible.

But what if you have greasy hair, or if you use hairspray, mousse gel, or putty?

Then cleansing conditioners are not a very good idea. They don’t have enough cleansing power to remove gunk from the hair. Chances are that cleansing with conditioner will leave your hair feeling dirty and weighed down.

The Beauty Brains bottom line:

If you’re really worried about drying your hair out from over-shampooing, there’s nothing wrong with skipping your shampoo and just rinsing with conditioner once in a while. But you don’t need to spend $28 on a special product. A nice inexpensive drug store brand will do the same thing.

–  –  –

Heather writes:

I got hair extensions out almost two years ago. I paid four thousand dollars for the kind that are put on individually with clips, which need to be put in and taken out with a tool that only salons have they have to be adjusted every month.

After about nine months, as the stylist was adjusting the clips, I noticed that my hair was coming out along with the extensions! There just was no more hair below the 26 - Tips on Caring for Your Hair clip of hair extension hair. My hair was just GONE. It all broke off at hundreds of different places where the clips were attached. It looked like a horror film!

I cried for months. Now my hair is still growing from my roots, but it’s not getting longer. Is there anything I can do to help strengthen my hair and stop it from breaking? If I were a multi-millionaire, would there be some way? Do movie stars have some way they repair their hair we don’t know about?

The Brains Respond:

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