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2. Clogged Hairspray Pump In addition to what Real Simple says, you should also know that a clogged hairspray can also be caused by a poorly designed formula. The resin that holds your hair in place can separate out if it’s not properly neutralized. If this is the case you’ll see little white specks floating in the product. Throw it away, it can’t be fixed!

3. Jammed Lotion Pump Of course you can also switch a pump from another skin lotion product.

4. Broken Perfume Pump They didn’t mention that the heat can cause the diptube (the thin plastic straw that carries the product up to the pump) to swell up and become sealed shut.

Store perfume in a cool place.

5. Shattered Powder Eye Shadow or Blush If you’re following their tip and you apply alcohol to the eye shadow compact, make sure you let it dry completely. Alcohol might carry in enough water to let bacteria grow in the powder cake.

6. Missing or Broken Aerosol Cap They say aerosol “cap” but they’re really talking about the button or the actuator, as it is technically known. The cap is the piece that covers the entire top of the can.

7. Stuck Nail-Polish Lid We agree with their comments. You might also try rubbing a little nail polish remover under the edge of the lid before trying to loosen it. You won’t get much under there, but it might help.

–  –  –

The Left Brain replies:

They can’t say it, at least not anymore. According to the August 20, 2007 edition of the Rose Sheet (a cosmetic industry bulletin) L’Oreal has been asked to modify or discontinue certain claims for Nutritioniste Ultra lift and Skin Renew products by the NAD (National Advertising Division). Here’s a

quick recap of the issues with 3 of L’Oreal’s claims:

1. “…it actually lifts wrinkles from the inside out” What the NAD says: “It is well established that topical creams do not absorb deep inside the skin in the same manner as cosmetic fillers such as collagen injections.” In other words, this lotion works from the outside in, not the other way around!

2. “…in three weeks wrinkles are visibly lifted and skin is noticeably firmer” What the NAD says: In L’Oreal’s clinical study the questions “related to skin firmness refer to skin feeling firmer, not being noticeably firmer as is explicitly stated in one of the challenged claims.”

3. Ultra lift “refuels cells within skin’s deepest surface layers” What the NAD says: L’Oreal’s 9 week study showed Ultra Lift’s effect on fine line, shallow wrinkles, and tactile roughness, and skin laxity. This is inadequate “particularly with regard to hydration - despite the presence of moisture locking ingredients Omega 3 and 6.” To be fair, I should point out that the NAD is not saying this product doesn’t Scandals and Secrets of the Beauty Biz - 133 work at all. For example, they did recognize that “scientific articles presented by the advertiser provide a reasonable basis for it’s ingredient claims in terms of accelerated cell proliferation and upped collagen production.” It’s just that L’Oreal didn’t have adequate support for all the claims that they were making and so they have been asked to change their advertising.

5 Fascinating Facts About Max Factor Cosmetics

Connie wants to win:

Can you please settle a bet? My friend is trying to convince me that the Max Factor cosmetic line is really named after a guy named Max Factor. Sounds like an urban legend to me. I’m guessing it’s really a marketing name like “Maximum Coverage Factor” or something like that. Please answer quickly, I can win an Itunes gift card!

The Left Brain resolves the bet:

You can also LOSE an iTunes gift card, Connie. I’m afraid your friend is right: Max Factor Cosmetics is actually named after the chemist who created it: Max Faktor.

Max is actually quite famous among us cosmetic chemists as one of the early

pioneers of modern makeup. Here are few fun historical facts:

Faktor to Factor Born in Poland in 1877, by the age of 20 Max was selling handmade rouges, fragrances and wigs. He came to the US in 1902 where he changed his name from “Faktor” to “Factor” and by 1904 he was selling lotions and hair care products at the St. Louis World’s Fair.

Shoot for the stars In 1914 he created the first line of grease paint products designed for motion picture stars. In just a few short decades, Jean Harlow, Claudette 134 - Scandals and Secrets of the Beauty Biz Colbert, Bette Davis, and virtually all of the major movie actresses were regular customers of the Max Factor beauty salon, located near Hollywood Boulevard.

He made up make up In the 1920s he developed a new line of color cosmetics for use in the new field of color motion pictures. In fact, he is credited with coining the word “makeup.” Max and Oscar In 1928 he was awarded a special technology Oscar from the Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences for his make up inventions. (Imagine that – a cosmetic chemist winning an Academy Award!) Selling like hotcakes In the 1930’s he developed the first powder makeup in solid form, also known as Pancake Makeup, for film stars. When he made it available to the general public, Pancake Makeup became of the biggest selling products in the history of the cosmetic industry. - Sorry about the iTunes card!

Are Arbonne products the best skin care you can buy?

Wenditha wonders:

Hey Left! Thanks for telling me about The Beauty Brains site. It’s great! Very pretty too, what with all the pink. : ) So I’m wondering about a beauty company called Arbonne? Could you tell me what the Beauty Brains think? They’re supposed to be the end-all, be-all, but I remain cautious. However, I’ve used some samples of their anti-aging skin line and found it to be very nice.

Left Beauty Brain responds:

Thanks for the question. We looked into the Arbonne products and have this to say.

Scandals and Secrets of the Beauty Biz - 135 The Arbonne Company First, Arbonne is one of these multi-level marketing companies like Amway in which you are encouraged to become a salesperson, have parties and recruit other people to become salespeople. I’ve always been skeptical of these kinds of schemes but here’s a guy who has an interesting perspective on Arbonne on becoming an Arbonne salesperson. Personally, I wonder why the products aren’t sold in the normal way through department or grocery stores. This would certainly make it easy to ignore the truth in advertising rules that other companies who sell through stores need to follow.

The Arbonne Marketing Story Based on the information on their website, Arbonne products are claimed to be premium skin care products are formulated in Switzerland at the Arbonne Institute of Research and Development (AIRD) and made in the U.S.A.

They follow the standard all-natural marketing story that you find from every other natural company, although they imply some kind of advanced science as if there was any. All the usual claims about how great their products are here. We’ve previously discussed cosmetic claims and what they really mean.

Here is a sampling of their claims.

1. Botanically based: based on botanical and herbal principles.

This doesn’t really mean anything. What are botanical & herbal principles?

2. pH correct. Big deal. So is every other skin care product.

3. Dermatologist tested. Just like everyone else`s product.

4. Formulated without dyes, animal products, fragrances, mineral oil. Again, more stuff that everyone else says.

The thing that’s different about these products than a mass market brand like Aveeno is the price. Arbonne is a whopping $19.50 for 8 ounces!

Aveeno is $9.99 for 18 ounces. Functionally, there will likely be no noticeable difference.

136 - Scandals and Secrets of the Beauty Biz The Arbonne Products The problem with these products is that they don`t live up to their natural claims. While we here at The Beauty Brains think stories about the trouble with chemicals like SLS and parabens are overblown, the natural crowd does not feel similarly. Arbonne formulas fail in this regard because they contain all kinds of chemicals that those people are afraid of. This review of Arbonne products spells it all out from their perspective. Of course, this fact has no bearing on whether the products are good or not, but it certainly suggests their marketing is suspect.

So, what about the products? Are they worth the extra money? Scientifically speaking, they’re probably not.

It was difficult to find the ingredient lists because they are not on their main website. However, here is one we found related to their skin lotion.

Arbonne Skin Moisturizing Lotion Ingredients: Water, Carthamus Tinctorius (Safflower) Seed Oil, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Cetearyl Alcohol, Ceteareth-20, Glycerin, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Fruit, Althaea Officinalis Root Extract, Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Extract, Taraxacum Officinale (Dandelion) Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract, Salvia Officinalis (Sage) Leaf Extract, Retinyl Palmitate, Ergocalciferol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Panthenol, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil, Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil, Zea Mays (Corn) Oil, Persea Gratissima (Avocado) Oil, Rosa Damascena Flower Oil, Stearic Acid, Cetyl Alcohol, Ethylhexyl Salicylate, Polysorbate 60, Carbomer, Disodium EDTA, Dimethicone, Quaternium-15, Triethanolamine This is a standard lotion complete with water, fatty alcohols, oils, emulsifiers, thickeners and preservatives. All of the natural sounding ingredients are most likely in there at such low levels they don’t really do anything. And even if they were in there at higher levels there is no proof that they would have a ny special effect anyway.

Scandals and Secrets of the Beauty Biz - 137 The Beauty Brains bottom line Arbonne is not the end-all be all of skin care or any other personal care product. They are good formulas, but pretty standard and will not perform noticeably better than the products you can buy at your local grocery store.

Buy them if you like (they’ll work fine) but don’t kid yourself into thinking they are anything special, they’re not. And if you’re looking to start your own business, forget multi-level marketing schemes. Check out the excellent website Start Up Nation instead.

Does Technology Make Arbonne Products Different?

There are certain topics on the Beauty Brains that spark vigorous debate.

Supporters provide a tenacious defense of their favorite products despite limited proof of effectiveness. Jan Marini and the eyelash growth product is one and Arbonne products are another. This post concerns the later.

Recently, we received an email from Christine who is a self-proclaimed Arbonne representative. She is proud to report that she’s a true believer who has “drunk the Koolaid”. You can see all of her comments in our previous Arbonne post.

She took issue with the fact that we suggested Arbonne products really weren’t much different than store brands. We’d like to respond to some points made in her comments because they are instructive in how to be a skeptical cosmetic consumer.

What does it mean to research a topic?

I spent three years of law school learning how to learn, so I researched Arbonne quite thoroughly before deciding to jump in with both feet We hear this claim fairly often. People write in and explain how they’ve researched a product. Unfortunately, they rarely describe what was 138 - Scandals and Secrets of the Beauty Biz involved in this research. Did they go to the website and just read what was published by the marketing department of the company? Did they go to internet forums and see what people were posting about the products?

Did they just read opinions on beauty blogs or hear something from their stylist? While these sources are helpful for product information, they are not really “research”. Each of these is full of biased opinions that may or may not be reliable.

Real research is a combination of product information plus intimate knowledge of raw materials, familiarity with formulating techniques, and experience with numerous laboratory evaluation techniques. Ideally, there would even be peer reviewed research published in a journal like those found at PubMed.

Here at the Beauty Brains we try to use our background in product formulation and sometimes even actual laboratory product evaluations to generate our opinions. Christine is correct to say that these are still just “subjective opinions” but unlike most, we have no products to sell you and we are not trying to convince ourselves we didn’t overpay for a product.

Hopefully, this allows us to provide the most unbiased evaluations possible.

Is the technology really different?

The commenter makes the point that there are “THREE KEY THINGS” that make Arbonne different. Only one of these has to do with the product.

The first thing is Arbonne’s technology, and the delivery system of the product.

Most beauty products are made up of great ingredients - they can be the best on the market. However, they often do not penetrate directly to the epidermal cells that need the moisture the most. The do not self-adjust. Arbonne uses a technology called Nanosphere technology - look it up…The nanosphere technology takes the medication, or the product, in our case, directly to the cellular areas that need it the most. Arbonne’s moisturizers do not sit on the skin like most other brands do. The product not only penetrates down from the top epidermal level, but does its work where it is needed the most. Superior product? Not necessarily.

–  –  –

It’s common for people to tell us that their technology is different. Arbonne’s “superior” technology is a thing they call Nanospheres. But this is the same type of technology that companies like L’Oreal and P&G have. This doesn’t make them different.

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